The Kitch Lit Series: In Season

Ruth Reichl’s Save Me the Plums is the most recent installment in the series of Reichl’s continuing memoirs. Beginning with Tender at the Bone, Reichl has chronicled her relationship to the culinary world with polished prose and delectable descriptions of some of the most delicious foods the world over. Save Me the Plums spans the years Reichl spent as editor in chief of Gourmet magazine. And while actual time spent in a kitchen may be minimal in Save Me the Plums, any Reichl tome deserves its’ place in the kitch lit series. 

Part of the Conde Nast empire, Gourmet was an established lifestyle publication when Reichl took the helm, but it was also desperately in need of a revamp. At the time she received the offer, Reichl was still comfortably settled at the New York Times, serving as the restaurant critic. Reichl doubts her abilities; after all, she does not have that kind of managerial experience. Advice from trusted friends and the prospect of more meals at home with her family (eating out 14 times every week makes a home cooked family meal quite a challenge) sway her into taking the leap. The adventure begins. The learning curve is daunting and the challenges arrive quickly, but Reichl exhibits her trademark zeal, never hesitating to dive in and learn the ropes. 

One of the most interesting aspects of Save Me the Plums is the inside look at the politics of the magazine industry. The publications under Conde Nast were vast, and the shuffling of people and positions was faster than a blackjack dealer in Vegas. Managing editors, publishers and art directors move or get moved to different publications because of changes in ad sales,  personalities and everything in between. An entirely secure environment it was not.

Save Me the Plums is a tale wherein we know the ending from the beginning. Gourmet falls victim to the steady – and still continuing (Entertainment Weekly, anyone?) – decline of the print industry. Gourmet’s end was the beginning of a new chapter in Ruth Reichl’s life. I will happily devour any and all future Reichl endeavors.