The Kitch Lit Series: Toast

If the saying is true, that food is life, Nigel Slater’s childhood was filled with bright spots (Butterscotch Angel Delight) and low points (dried peas). As such, his memoir, Toast, is a complex mix of whimsy and melancholy. Subtitled ‘The Story of a Boy’s Hunger,” Toast is about so much more than hunger in the physical sense. Slater, whose mother passed away when he was a child, spent the rest of his youth hungry for the warmth and care that was lost with her.

Slater readily admits that his mother was not an accomplished cook. Slater and his father pushed through the meals, usually overdone and lacking flavor. Even if the meals were not spectacular, even if she did not always enjoy their preparation, what his mother did put into every meal was love. Again, this is not to say she loved the process of preparing tea or Sunday dinner  - she rather clearly only enjoyed it on rare occasions - but she loved the people she was serving, and that is why she did it.

Broken into vignettes titled for a particular culinary adventure, Slater richly describes the food and the enjoyment of eating it. Here he describes the aforementioned Butterscotch Angel Delight: 

"Butterscotch Angel Delight was magic. Magic in the way that if you stood over it for five minutes you could actually watch the powder and milk thicken into a creamy dessert. Magic in the way it seemed to thicken further once you put it in your mouth. Magic in what seemed like a mean portion in the bowl became almost too much of a good thing in the mouth. Magic in the way that it managed to taste of both sugar and soap at the time."

When you least expect it, Slater drops in a hilarious bon mot as the last sentence in a chapter.    

Taking place in the UK during the 60s and 70s, I admit my own unfamiliarity with some of the terminology, culinary or otherwise. Though my Great British Baking Show knowledge did come in handy. Caster sugar, icing sugar, cling film. Yep, I already knew those. But it is impossible not to find familiarity in the experience of growing up: things happen around you that you do not fully understand but, at the same time, you understand that change is likely afoot. 

Ending shortly after Slater’s days in university, Toast definitely left me hungry for more. The reader can't help but hope that as Slater continued to grow and mature, that his hunger – both literal and metaphorical – was satisfied. 

Such A Good Read

Before I dive back into Kitch Lit, allow me to take a moment to implore you to read Kiley Reid’s Such a Fun Age. Reid’s debut novel centers on two women: Emira and Alix. Emira is a young black woman struggling to make ends meet and closing the gap by babysitting for an affluent white family. Alix is the matriarch of said family. Unbeknownst to the two of them, the women share a connection that threatens both their professional and personal relationships.

Such a Fun Age opens with Emira and toddler Briar at the grocery store late at night – at the request of Briar’s parents who request Emira take Briar while they talk to the police about vandalism at their home. A fellow shopper suspects Briar may have been taken against her will and alerts store security. Another shopper films the interaction between Emira and the security guard until Briar’s father rushes to the store to resolve the situation. Emira is ready to quickly move on from the encounter, but the incident in the grocery store was simply the rock breaking the surface of the water. The ripples will continue to disrupt the calmness of the water for a long time to come.

Reid beautifully develops each character and grants them a level of attention such that, though we glimpse only a small period of time in their lives, it is impossible not to genuinely care for every one of them. Emira feels a sense of shame that, as a 26 year-old college graduate, she is babysitting, but at the same time, she loves caring for Briar. Briar is experiencing the world for the first time and Emira gets to shape Briar’s worldview and experience those firsts all over again. Briar has no preconceived notions of race or privilege. Briar speaks the language of love and only knows the sincere care Emira shows her. Alix, on the other hand, has grown up in a post-Civil Rights America, a witness to the progress and aware of the work yet to be done. Alix soon makes it her mission to develop a stronger bond with Emira. Working on bringing Emira closer, Alix invites Emira and her boyfriend to Thanksgiving at their house, and it is at that meal that the unknown connection between the two of them is revealed.

There are countless ways to address race and class in America through contemporary fiction. Reid’s microcosm of the contemporary black female experience may be just one example, but it is illustrative of a multitude of experiences. Such a Fun Age is wholly contemporary. It is a novel born of the age of social media, privilege, economic divides and the Black Lives Matter movement. At the same time, Such a Fun Age touches on realities that have been present in American society since the beginning. Such a Fun Age is a highly enjoyable read. I am forever thankful that the book was released in the winter instead of in the summer, for I fear it would have ended up in the "beach reads" section. Because don’t be fooled, Reid’s sharp wit and perfect plotting might make it feel like a breezy read, but Such a Fun Age is one of the smartest, most thought-provoking novels to come along in quite a while.